Chef John Brand

Think Like a Chef: Know

May 15, 2012 by John Brand

Basic, basic fundamental knowledge for cooking. Simply put, these are things every cook should know.

More to be added later.

Definition of ‘sweat’ as it applies to vegetables.

Why salt is important to the aforementioned application.

Rapid cooling technique for cooked items to include liquids and solid foods.

Cross contamination of every food must be understood.

Temperature Danger Zone and why nothing may be in it.

Definition of ‘deglaze’, why is it necessary.

How to find ‘umami’ in the kitchen and how to develop it when cooking

Five mother sauces as defined by Escoffier.

Five derivatives minimum of one mother sauce. Extra credit for all sauces.

‘How to’ consomme.

Seasons of vegetables and fruits and why to cook in the season.

Locations on earth of where this produce is grown.

Geography of the oceans and the seafood harvested from it.

How to read a menu.

How to develop synergy with ingredients.

Be aware of duplicity on the menu.

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I believe if you love food and love to cook food, these films are important to watch. They may challenge your moral compass as a chef, they may make you angry or sad. This is all good, and good to watch. These suggestions have no intention of getting political, it may help define the new tribes forming around food.

Movies

Food Inc.

Our Daily Bread

King Corn

Fresh

Forks over Knives

Food Beware

Food Fight

Farmaggedon

Food Matters

Vegucated

Ingredients

BBC: Hell’s Kitchen, circa 2003, not the Fox version

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Think Like a Chef: Read

May 13, 2012 by John Brand

The list below is reccommended to be read, some for humor, candor and wit but more important, wisdom. A comprehensive set of these writings will give balanced insight on how to think like a chef. Some are just the forwards in the cookbooks that will yeild more knowledge about the book or author than say, a recipe.

In Defense of Food, Michael Pollan

Burgundy Stars, William Echikson

The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan

Food Rules, Michael Pollan

Devil in the Kitchen, Marco Pierre White

White Heat, Marco Pierre White

La Repertoire de la Cuisine, Louis Saulnier

Heat, Bill Buford

Lessons in Excellence, Paul Clarke/Charlie Trotter

Setting the Table, Danny Meyer

Schott’s Food and Drink Miscellany, Ben Schott

The Flavor Bible/ Culinary Artistry

Four Fish, Paul Greenberg

Tomatoland, Barry Estabrook

Holy Cows and Hog Heaven, Joel Salatin

Ideas in Food

Noma, Rene Redzepi

French Laundry, Thomas Keller

Bouchon, Thomas Keller

Return to Cooking, Eric Ripert

Eleven Madison Park, Daniel Humm

Escoffier, George Auguste

CAFO

Pattons One Minute Messages

Periodicals

Art Culinaire

So Good Magazine

Food Arts

Food and Wine

Saveur

Donna Hay

Flavor and the Menu

Hotel FnB

Restaurant Hospitality

Cooks Illustrated

New York Times Wednesday

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Pearl FM 3rd Anniversary Recipe: Smoked Lamb Neck, Ramps and Sauce Gribiche

May 12, 2012 by John Brand

Often underappreciated but easy to cook, the lamb neck is wonderful as a braised item. I smoked todays lamb prior to braising and it pairs well with the classic sauce Gribiche. For added flavor and punch, something fresh and just of the season are ramps, todays was as a salsa. Also a light chervil gremoulata with blood orange zest and fresh horseradish.

The lamb can be purchased locally from Twin County Dorpers and the eggs are from a variety of farms such as todays Peeler Farms.

Lamb Neck

1 each or about 6 pounds, whole preferred.

Debone necks and smoke 45 minutes

Sear in cast iron pan.

2 carrot, cut large dice

1 celery stalk, large dice

2 onion, large dice

1 whole head of garlic

2 cups veal stock

2 cups cheap red wine

6 roma tomato, split

Method;

caramelize vegetables, add wine and reduce by half, add veal stock and reduce by half, place lamb neck in pan with vegetables and liquid, cook in oven almost 6 hours at 275 degrees until spoon tender

reserve in braising liquid and cool. Remove from liquid, and portion, about 8 portions per neck.

Heat remaining liquid and strain, reserve for service.

Sauce Gribiche

4 eggs, cooked, cooled, and separated

1 T sour Cream

1 T mayo

2 gherkins, fine chopped

1 T capers, fine chopped

1 T red wine vinegar

Pinch of chives

Pinch of capers

1 T Dijon mustard

Splash of worchestershire sauce

Method:

Boil eggs. Press yolks through fine mesh screen. Press whites through fine mesh screen. Add remaining ingredients and mix well, season

Ramp Salsa

2 cups Virginia Ramps, chopped

2 cups arugula

2 shallots

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Blend in food processor, season with salt and pepper

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How To Be a Better Chef….Leader of Cooks

April 18, 2012 by John Brand

I humbly wish I had learned this a long time ago. I sincerely wish others would learn this now.

Our last day of class at the CIA featured a lecture on leadership. As a former president of the largest advertising agency in the United States, our teacher is currently on the Board of Trustees at CIA. He is a keen wine enthusiast and consultant with many restaurants in New York City as well as the West Coast. He knows his food and his people. These are my take-away notes from the time he spent with us on Friday afternoon. I believe it should be shared.

Leadership Features:

Show you care. Be Compassionate. To Everyone.
People listen to your words and try to understand what you said. Be Specific.
People watch everything you do and evaluate how you do things.
People want you to lead them.
Be technically proficient. Be better, faster, cleaner than your people at their jobs but never wield that as power.
Know yourself and constantly seek improvement.
Know your people and look out for their welfare.
Keep your people informed. Transparency on all matters builds relationships.
Train people as a team.
Develop a sense of accountability, ownership, and responsibility within everyone you work with.
Take responsibility for all of your actions. Everything is your fault.
Tell more stories, the context makes it easier to interalize values and lessons.
Have a purpose. Define that purpose clearly. Have a purpose.

Posted in Hyde Park April 2012 | Tagged leadership | Leave a Comment »

Blue Hill at Stone Barns

April 15, 2012 by John Brand

Just a few days ago I spent an important amount of time on the farm in Pocantico Hills, New York. It is harder to describe the moments we shared with the chef and farm manager Craig Haney that afternoon and evening. I had eaten at Blue Hill in NYC last fall so this trip was indeed at the top of the bucket list. The biggest take away was learning about the ‘recipe for the recipe’; how the grasses are important to the diet of lamb, how they rotate the fields and how much of the grass is eaten. Best example was the land next door to the farm was a grain fed cattle farm. Significantly different. The tastes, sights, sounds, and textures of planting, barns, fields, and extensive lamb butchery all before an amazing dinner. Maybe the photos will help but best to visit yourself, put it on your list. The food does not get better than from the farm.
Blue Hill
Stone Barns

Posted in Hyde Park April 2012 | Leave a Comment »

Hudson Valley

April 11, 2012 by John Brand

It was an honor to have a tour of this campus. Amazing place, one I’ve always held in high regard. I have worked with and for many chefs who graduated from this venerable program. Many of them good chefs, some better cooks, and a couple of hacks. The culinary program is well invested and the students who attend are fortunate. Thankful culinary students have this campus to attend, beautiful location on the banks of the Hudson River.